Now for the more techy, general ramblings side of it all.
Things that made me go “hmmm” / nitpicking or “neat”…
While this camera is quite cheap in costs, there’s a couple items that do not quite fit into the categories above. They are listed below…
- You have absolutely no fine-control over the encoder modes for Main and sub-streams via the WebUI. It’s H264, H264B, or H265 with no fine-tuning options. You have the ability to change the resolution, frame rate, bit rate, and frame intervals – but much more finite items are not available.
- It should be noted that there are global configuration settings that can be set via Camera->Configuration->Exposure->Mode->Manual. But are a far cry from the fine-tuning options.
- The NTP settings come initially set to
clock.isc.organd does not respect ANY DHCP NTP offering given.
- By default, it’s set to ping/contact clock.isc.org once every 10 minutes, which in all honesty – is hammering a remote NTP server. Once every 12 or 24 hours is more than enough for an NTP sync!
- By default, the NTP timezone comes pre-set at GMT+8. The majority of users will likely never realize the device is in GMT+8 in the states until they wonder why their clocks on the camera are nearly 10+ hours off from actual local time.
- You can use the Dahua tool with this camera to modify portions of it.
- Syslogging support is decent, lacks SNMP support.
- When there is an SDCard inserted in an errored state, the Storage will show both SDCard details and the onboard-storage as being available. Likely a display bug?
- When attempting to get a DHCPv4 or DHCPv6 IP assignment, the Hostname input appears to be completely ignored and will use the devices serial as the hostname.
- DHCPv6 will attempt to always default to a Chinese IP for both DNS inputs. (!)
- When swapped to DHCPv6, the mode will always default to static assignment and not DHCP. It is possible this camera does not support many DHCP6 modes.
- P2P Mode is enabled by default.
- There is a stealth port open on TCP 8086. Unknown of its use, but didn’t dig into Nmap too much.
While the device was powered on in it’s default state, the camera external temperature sit at 105 to 110 F.
While the device was powered on with everything active and all settings at the maximum permitted, the temperature of the shell of the camera was sitting at 115 to 120 F.
And finally, with the device settings maxed out, and the IR LEDs turned on at high as they would go, the temperature hit 134 F on the black panel of the camera, the rest of the white ball to the camera persisted in the upper end of the second readings above, 120 F.
It is worth noting that the entire ball of the camera got rather hot/warm to the touch after it’s been in operating for at least 30 minutes. I am unsure if this is by design, but it would not be wise for this camera to be placed into direct sunlight for any period of time, as it would possibly cause heat damage and thereon after, failure of the device.
Leaving the camera on for six hours over the night hours, the cameras external temperature was borderline ‘too hot to touch’. Infrared sensor pegged it at 130F on the face, and 134F on the aluminum casing. This is borderline _too hot_.
Placing a fan on the camera, the temperatures became much more tolerable and ambient, sitting in the mid-90 F range.
Let’s face it, nearly every IR-cut based camera has in this in some form or another. Be it on the edges, or everywhere, or just barely notable.
With this camera, visual Chromatic Aberration is only notable on the far corners of the image. I did not observe dislocation between the IR cut filter and the sensor elsewhere on the entire frame snapshots. With DNR active, the IR was quite clear.
During the night or dark environments, there are four notable dark spots on the camera’s sensor with IR Cut active – this is only visible on the corners of the image. Even when using a 3rd party IR led, the top left, top right, bottom left and bottom right portions of the frame/sensor would always have a darkened edge/curvature.